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January 6th, 2010 admin Leave a comment Go to comments

ball python habitat?

i'm looking into getting a ball python and want more information.

i read up on how the humidity is important for the snake. would a small rubbermaid tote with a hole cut in the top work for a soak-safety zone? and if i didn't get that, what would be a good way to ensure the humidty level.

also, heating mat vs. a heating lamp. what's the difference/pros and cons of each?

any bad things about the ball python i should know about? do tell.

<3 thankyou.

Aside from on-line answers, I'd check with 1) the dealer selling your ball, or 2) your local PetSmart/PetCo, etc.

I owned my balls over 12 years ago, so it's been some time, but in general...

You will need a bowl large enough for your python to curl up completely inside. Many/most snakes use this method for both tempurature regulation and humidity. I used a large, terra cotta-like shallow water dish, like a dog bowl, for my snakes. This serves both thirst and environment needs

Regarding the heat lamp vs. heating pad. The heating pad heats just one area of the terrarium, giving your snake the option to heat bathe on it or not, depending on his needs at the time. The lamp heats the entire terrarium, which is still necessary, especially in the winter. Remember, cold blooded, he has no way of regulating his own temperature except with his surroundings.

I used both. My water bowl was half on/half off the heating pad on one side of the cage. This contributed to the humidity factor inside the terrarium. The heating lamp I had on a timer so I didn't accidentally cook my poor snake. And don't use just any ol' heating pad. Make sure you get a reptile-safe version from the pet store. Regular heating pads are *way* to hot usually. Additionally, make sure the heating pad is on one side of the cage, that way your snake decides how much, or little, heat he wants. My pad adhered underneath the glass bottom.

Also, you will need to provide a shelter, enclosed on three sides and on top, with a smaller opening. This will allow your snake to feel secure in his territory - that's his place only. In the beginning this can be a simple as a cardboard box. You just want to ensure that he can get into it completely without lifting it up. You may want to invest in a "rock" structure from the pet store eventually as he'll probably climb on top of it and cardboard crushes easily. If you can work this into the half on/half off of the heating pad, cool - I think. Confer with the vet or petsmart folks about this one.

Additionally, I'd recommend box-feeding your snake (size permitting). In this method you DO NOT feed your snake in his terrarium. Instead you take the snake out, put him in a box or paper bag (when he is small) with nothing in it and that you only use for feeding. Drop the mouse into the box. This way your snake knows food only comes when he's in the box and reduces the risk he'll think your hand is food when you reach for him in his terrarium.

Always make sure your wash your hands before and after handing your snake. Keep a lock on the lid of the terrarium. Your snake will explore. And if he gets out (which he will at least once) look nearby. My snakes rarely traveled further than ten feet from their cage and then usually into a small, confined space to hide.

Other than that, my balls were great apartment pets. Unagressive and fun. Look for a snake that wraps into a tight ball when shopping. One snake wrapped into a lazy ball and was a very lazy snake. Not that bright at all.

Do make sure you have a vet. You may experience ticks and such which a vet can help you with.

Other than that, have fun! Ball python's are a great first reptile.